RC Man Child Store Review and Igniting an ESC

Recently I purchased some motors and ESCs from RC Manchild. I purchased the following gear. 

4x 400kv Motors

4x 30A HV ESCs

This was for a new quad I was building to be able to lift a Gopro and DYS 3-axis gimbal and hoefully be efficient enough to get decent air times with a 6S 4500mah battery configuration. 

It all went well until I flew it. You see I put 14x5.5 props on because that is what I'd seen someone on YouTube doing and figured that it would be perfect. However what I hadn't figured into the equation is that the YouTube video I saw was shot at 7000 feet elevation in the mountains of Utah. 

So when my quad took to the skies for the first time the result is seen below. 

The ESC literally caught first as it was drawing so much current.

Well I contacted RC Man child and got by far the very best customer service I've ever had. Not only did Don (the owner) reply to my emails incredibly promptly, but he helped me work out why it blew up, recommended some better props (these ones) and gave me a new one free of charge. Even though it was entirely my fault for destroying it. He even offered to give me a new motor if I'd managed to cook the existing one, which luckily I hadn't.

Very quickly he had the new ESC on its way along with some new props I purchased and they been working incredibly well even since. This quad gets 20+ minutes of the 6S 4500mah power pack while hauling around the GoPro and gimbal.

One more thing I'll mention from the RC Man child store is this little power distribution board. Its fantastic because not only does it provide and easy way to hook up your ECSs to the main power pack but it also provides a clean 12v output for running a gimbal and another clean output which you can vary depending on your needs. For example it could output 5v for power a second Rx for the person operating the gimbal in a two pilot setup.

Well the conclusion is a simple one. So far I've found RC Man child to be a fantastic company to deal with who sell a quality product and have awesome customer service. And finally make sure you look up what size props to put on your motor/ESC comb so you don't building a flying flame thrower like I did.

FrSky Taranis Antenna Upgrade Part 2

Well it seems that I am unable to stop modifying my FrSky Taranis so here's the next step.

Firstly I do not take credit for the design of this antenna. That came from the great IBCray and his tutorial for the calculations, theory and measurements can be found here. So I'm not going to go over those again. This is just my build log and application of his design. So that being said lets get started.

Things you'll need.

For the antenna:
1. A small coax cable
2. Copper or steel wire, about 14 AWG
3. Metallic plate
4. Two Nylon bolts
5. Plastic container (optional as this is just the cover)

For the antenna mounting (this is just my solution but many others would work as well):
1. 12mm x 12mm square wooden dowel.
2. Two M3 bolts (atleast 30mm)
3. Heat shrink


Other:
1. Heat shrink
2. Hot glue
3. Solder


Lets get to the modding......




Step 1.
Cut the backing plate and the wire. I used G10 board for the reflector plate.

Step 2.
Start bending the wire at the section lengths for a 2.4 Ghz (see the IBCrazy thread for the calculations to get the dimensions for your frequency)

Step 3.
The reflector plate and the resonator.

Step 4.
Drill a hole in reflector for the coax cable and also mount the nylon bolts to hold the resonator.

Step 5.
Strip the coax cable back and solder the shielding to the reflector.

Step 6.
Solder the resonator to the coax cable and glue it to the nylon bolts

Step 7.
Glue the coax cable and nylon bolts to the back of the reflector and glue the plastic container to the front of the antenna.

Step 8.
You'll need to get the coax cable into the Taranis so instead of drilling into it I ran it though the hole in the ORX module left when I did the antenna mod on it.

Step 9.
New antenna connected to Taranis.

Step 10.
Solder new coax cable to the Taranis module board where the other antenna was connected.

Step 11.
Antenna ready to be mounted.

Step 12.
Cut four sections of the dowel about the length of antenna. Doesn't matter if they are a bit shorter.

Step 13.
Clamp them together and drill a hole where they meet at the top about 4mm in diameter.

Step 14.
Take the handle off the Taranis and put some heat shrink over it to give the clamp more grip.

Step 15.
Drill mounting holes in the dowels just bellow the main semi holes.

Step 16.
Screw the mounts together with the M3 bolts and clamp them to the handle of the Taranis.

Step 17.
Glue the new antenna to the mounts.

Step 18.
All Done!

Note: this reduced my SWR reading down to 16. This is probably fine but I read that to get it even lower you need to make sure that when you're soldering the coax cable to the board you want to expose a very very small amount of the core and make it as close as possible to the soldered shielding.